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Let's talk dermarollers, shall we? You've got a few different types of microneedling tools out there, like dermastamps or dermapens, but arguably the most popular tools for at-home dermarolling? Dermarollers (surprise). These tools might look like your average face roller, but look closer, and you'll notice that the roller head is actually covered in short, teeny-tiny little needles that, when rolled across your skin, create tiny holes that help improve the way your skin looks and feels.
Now, I don't know about you, but there's something about rolling hundreds of needles across my face that gives me the heebie-jeebies—and that's coming from someone who has tried (and loved) microneedling with PRP. But the idea of doing it by myself? Hard to get behind. The results of microneedling are convincing enough for me to work up the courage, but would I even be able to get the same results with at-home dermarollers? That, my friends, is the question we're here to answer.
So to help us demystify dermarollers, we turned to the experts. Ahead, all the answers to your questions about the spikey lil skincare tools, plus the best dermarollers worth giving a try.
Meet the experts
- Ava Shamban, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Ava MD Dermatology, SkinFive by Ava MD Med Spas, and dermatologist-curated skincare subscription The Box by Dr. Ava
- Kerry Benjamin, an aesthetician and the founder of Stacked Skincare
- Liz Kennedy, an aesthetician and the founder of Beauty Magnet
Does home microneedling really work?
We've got studies upon studies to back up microneedling as an effective in-office treatment for everything from atrophic acne scars to melasma, but what about at-home dermarolling, you ask? “While highly effective, microneedling for home and office can vary,” says board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD. “Devices for home usage are usually less invasive with more shallow needles for a more surface-level penetration.” Basically, less intense and less dramatic.
Search around, and you’ll hear and see plenty of testimonials of how an at-home dermaroller can help improve acne scars, fine lines, wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone, and pore size (see: best-case scenarios). But technically, the benefits of at-home microneedling—sometimes called dermarolling or cosmetic needling—are limited to exfoliation and the improvement of the skin's look and feel. Essentially, you can expect smoother, more exfoliated skin, but hopefully be a best-case scenario.
For what it's worth, only professional, medical-grade microneedling devices have been FDA-cleared as safe and effective for acne scars and wrinkles, while at-home microneedling tools and dermarollers are not considered medical devices and are not regulated by the FDA. Again, that doesn't mean they're automatically bad or dangerous, but it does mean that you should proceed with some caution.
Can microneedling ruin your skin?
As you can imagine, contamination, infection, or skin barrier damage are always risks when rolling needles across your face, which is why the experts stress the importance of disinfecting your dermaroller with isopropyl alcohol, storing it properly, regularly replacing the roller or roller head, and using it correctly with the proper pressure. “I recommend home usage of dermarollers, but with great caution and care," says Dr. Shamban, while also stressing the importance of keeping your roller clean and sanitized.
Aesthetician Liz Kennedy's skincare motto—especially when using dermarollers—is to go low and slow. “People just get so hyped once they see the results of dermarollers that they’re like, ‘I want more!'" she says. But the key is to keep it light and not overdo it. “When dermarolling is done incorrectly, you can destroy your skin, but when it’s done correctly, the results can be outrageously good.”
How to choose the best dermaroller:
When shopping for a dermaroller, there's one main feature you want to focus on: the needles. They can be made from titanium, stainless steel, or polymer, and are available in a range of different lengths. Although you can find facial dermarollers online with needle lengths between 0.5mm to 1mm (or even longer lengths typically only used by a professional), aesthetician Kerry Benjamin says even a roller with needs as short as 0.2mm would be enough.
Not only is a shorter needle length safer for at-home use, but it's also more comfortable. Your face is typically numbed up for an in-office treatment, and Benjamin explains that longer lengths are just flat-out too painful to do yourself. “You’re not going to end up using it, so you’re not going to get the benefit out of it,” Benjamin says.
You might also want to consider a tool that has the option to replace the head, so you don't have to toss the whole thing when it comes time to change it out (something Benjamin suggests doing every month to avoid using dull needles). And the last piece of expert advice is to use a high-quality tool. “I would recommend making sure you’re buying from a reputable company and making sure the needle size is appropriate,” Benjamin adds.
Sound confusing? We gotchu. Take a peek at a few of the best dermarollers of 2021 right now, then keep scrolling for the full list.
Best dermarollers of 2021:
- Best dermaroller according to a derm: AnteAGE Home Microneedling Intro Kit
- Best dermaroller design: StackedSkincare Microneedling Tool
- Best dermaroller for multipurpose use: Nudestix Nudeskin x Beauty Magnet 5-in-1 Rose Gold Professional Skin Tool
- Best dermaroller for the eye area: BeautyBio Eye Want It All Face & Eye Total Rejuvenation Set
- Best dermaroller with changeable heads: Skin Gym 3-Pc. MicroRoller Set
Can all skin types use a dermaroller?
One more thing before we get into the best dermarollers to buy for at-home use, if you have, eczema don't try this at home (or in-office, for that matter). Those with active, severe pustular acne should also avoid dermarolling and wait until their skin clears up to give it a try. “We need to clear up your acne first, and then likely you would want to incorporate this in later to remove the hyperpigmentation that would possibly be left behind,” Benjamin explains. In general, anyone with sensitive skin (see: rosacea, keratosis pilaris, etc.), should proceed with caution.
Now for what you've all been waiting for, the best dermarollers you can shop online.
If you're nervous about rolling your face with needles (understandable), go with a dermaroller like this one that makes the experience as comfortable as possible. Designed with 0.2mm needles and an ergonomic handle that curves to contour the face, this dermaroller from Benjamin's skincare line is one of the easiest to maneuver so you don't get tripped up along the way. You'll love how easy it is to switch out the replaceable head, too.
Dr. Shamban's top pick, this dermaroller set contains the Microchannel Roller that has 0.25mm needles and a comfortable-to-hold handle. It also comes with a microneedling solution thatcontains stem cell growth factors and hyaluronic acid to helpenhance the active skin response.
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3
Best Dermaroller for Multipurpose Use
Nudestix Nudeskin x Beauty Magnet 5-in-1 Rose Gold Professional Skin Tool
As if the 0.3mm dermaroller with a detachable head wasn't enough, it comes magnetized to four other skincare tools (a face roller, eye massager, tweezers, and extractor) to address a multitude of skin concerns. To use this tool from Kennedy's line, follow crosshatch motions, don't exceed 60 seconds per session, and follow it up with the right skincare. “I like using peptides, collagen creams, hyaluronic acid after dermarolling,” Kennedy says. “You want anything that’s really hydrating, plumping.”
Although Benjamin says you would want to avoid using a dermaroller on your eyelids, you can use it underneath your eyes and on your temples (thecrow's feet area).With this set, you get theGloPRO Microneedling Regeneration Tool, attachment heads for both the face and eyes that have 540 stainless steel needles that are 0.3mm long, The Quench Eye Balm with an applicator wand, Skin Prep Pads, and an empty sanitizing spray bottle for easy cleaning. You'll really like the added LED red light therapy function to further enhance the potential skin benefits.
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Whether you appreciate crystal beauty products or just appreciate pretty things, you might want to try this dermaroller, which features a genuine rose quartz acupressure bulb on the end opposite the dermaroller head, which has 560 0.2mm stainless steel needles.
Benjamin alsorecommends using your dermaroller on your upper lip area (you know,where you tend to get vertical lines?).A dermaroller with a small roller head like this (which has180 stainless steel needles that are0.25 mm long) is particularly great for getting into tighter areas.
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If your skin can tolerate both microneedling and retinol (don't be surprised if yours can't), try this set. It comes with a dermaroller and serum capsules that contain peptides and retinoids. “Some people might have to ease into it, but I like to apply my growth factor serum, microneedle, and then apply my retinol afterwards,” Benjamin explains.
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9
Best Dermaroller for Brightening Skin
Urban Skin RX DermRenew Complexion Corrector Microneedling Tool
Now 41% Off
Another solid option, this dermaroller is made of stainless steel needles with 0.3 mm needle depth. Again, if your skin can tolerate it (that's a big “if”), this brand suggests finishing your dermarolling session with an application of a vitamin C serum. Because vitamin C is very active and potentially irritating, Benjamin suggests always applying it first on a small area of skin and allowing it to sit overnight to test for a reaction.
When you're going to be tossing your dermaroller after a few uses and before the needles dull (follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific amount of uses), you probably don't want to spend a lot of money on one. This dermaroller with 540 stainless steel needles that are 0.25mm long has 1k ratings, 4.4 stars, its own storage case, and will cost you less than 10 bucks.
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We've mentioned how great hyaluronic acid can be when layered on after using yourdermaroller, and this set, which comes with all the supplies you need,makes it easy to do exactly that. If you have dry skin,try layering on the hyaluronic acid serum, followed by yourmoisturizer, and sealed witha face oil.
You might know the brand for their LED masks, but don't forget to check out the dermarollers, too. This sleek skincare tool is made with0.25mm needles and is a good choice for a beginner who is just testing it out anddoesn't want to spend a lot.
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This drugstore skincare product might not have all the fancy additional features, but it does have exactly what you need to get started:0.25mmstainless steel needles and a handle that fits comfortably in your hand and makes it easy to use.
Brooke Shunatona
Brooke Shunatona is a contributing writer for Cosmopolitan.com.